九座岛,三大板块
Polly arrives over São Miguel, the largest of the nine Azores islands, and finds a coastline of black volcanic rock, green fields, and hedges heavy with hydrangeas, all of it built by three tectonic plates grinding together far below.
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Keep it on your phone →波莉低低地掠过一片黑色火山岩的海岸线,绿色的田野一直延伸到悬崖边缘,更靠内陆的地方,雾气缓缓地漫过一座座浑圆的山丘。这里是圣米格尔岛,亚速尔群岛九座岛屿中最大的一座,独自坐落在北大西洋的正中央。咸腥的海风混着湿土和新割青草的气味,下方某处,一只公鸡从她还看不见的农场里啼叫起来。
整座岛屿之所以存在,都要归因于海底深处的一道裂缝:承载着大陆的三大板块在那里缓慢地相互碾磨。北美洲往一个方向拉,欧洲往另一个方向拉,非洲则从南面挤压过来;在三者边缘交汇之处,热量与压力沿着地壳的裂隙一路向上寻找出口。这条岛链上的每一座岛都是这样造出来的,一次喷发接着一次喷发,除了火与冷却的岩石,别无他物。
圣米格尔岛上几乎每一块田地的边缘,都种着一道绣球花篱,蓝色、紫罗兰色,有时还有柔和的粉色,密得像是被人直接画在这片风景上。十九世纪,农人把这种植物从亚洲带来,只是想用它标出牧场之间的界线,从没想过它会成为这座岛的标志。富含矿物质的火山土,让它们的花瓣比世界上几乎任何地方的同一种花都更蓝。
再往内陆走,青翠的山丘隆起、折叠,围出一片片开阔而安静的盆地,那是波莉从海岸边望不进去的地方。有蒸汽从其中某处淡淡升起,在灰色的天空下拉成细细的白线,于是她转了个方向,朝高处飞去,想看看那究竟是什么。
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